Craft beer is rightly loved for its diversity, experimentation and movement with the seasons. But this can mean that that beer you read about that sounds crazy delicious might have been brewed in such limited quantities that beer geeks line up outside the half-dozen stores blessed with a case and it sells out by noon on the day of release.
Or it may be that your local store simply doesn’t carry your favourite seasonal. A record number of B.C. breweries may well be churning out a record volume of craft beer at a record rate these days, but it’s easy to forget that craft still occupies a niche in a market that remains dominated by Molson Coors, Labatt (Anheuser-Busch InBev) and Sleeman (Sapporo) — who, accordingly, still get the lion’s share of shelf space at government stores.
Or perhaps you’re from out of province or visiting from abroad, your time is short and you want to sample quality beer from the region without going on a bottle hunt.
Or maybe you just want to cut the crap (seriously, have you read my craft beer reviews?) and know straight off what’s delicious and plentiful.
Behold, a list! A totally, utterly subjective top-10 list that compiles my favourite beer in the province that’s available year-round and is easy to come by. All but two of the following 10 are available at government liquor stores across the province. The other two are stocked at many of the best liquor stores in the Lower Mainland and Greater Victoria at the very least. The list is presented alphabetically by beer name to prevent further controversy.
Fat Tug IPA (Driftwood Brewery, 7%)
Some would say this is the only beer in B.C. you should drink. Regarded by many as the best beer in B.C., Fat Tug is thick with luscious hops, from the intense grapefruit-pine aroma to the woodsy, citrus and melon flavours, which are backed by a rich malt backbone and a bracing bitterness (80 IBUs). The slightly higher than average ABV lends a little spicy warmth, too.
Food pairing: Mexican or Thai dishes, and could happily wrestle with the most pungent cheddars.
Read the original Fat Tug review
Fearless India Pale Ale (Dead Frog Brewery, 6.5%)
Dead Frog’s statement of intent to be taken seriously: a signature Pacific Northwest hop bomb that clocks in at 77 IBUs and is ripe with aromas of melon, pineapple and pine. Melon, guava and pine flavours are built atop a slightly scorched yet smooth caramel malt base. A bruising bitterness lifts to leave herbal highlights and a pleasant glow in the throat.
Food pairing: Cajun, jerk, traditional Mexican and dry, fiery Indian curries.
Read the original Fearless review
Howe Sound Lager (Howe Sound Brewing, 5.5%)
A fuller-flavoured Dortmund-style lager that holds true to the style. Beyond a subtle nose there’s a delicious biscuity, caramel malt sweetness, backed by some pine resin and herbs. It goes down beautifully, with a gentle bitterness fading into a tantalizing dryness that makes this a great thirst-quencher, and great for pairing with food.
Food pairing: It’s a German-style beer. Do I have to say sausage? Especially bratwurst? Also try robust salads featuring grilled steak or prawns, or even a Thai curry.
Read the original Howe Sound Lager review
Northwest Ale (Spinnakers, 6.2%)
A darker, maltier cousin of IPA, this hugely flavourful ale nevertheless remains highly hopped (85 IBUs kind of gives that away). But it’s a superbly balanced beer, marrying honeyed caramel and treacle malt with pine, bracken and lighter hops notes of lemon, melon and tangy berries. There’s a lick of smoke on the nose as well. It’s beautifully rounded and sumptuously soft in the mouth and leaves a massive dryness that demands another swig.
Food pairing: Indian curries, traditional slow-cooked barbecue
Available at many good private liquor stores
Red Racer ESB (Central City Brewers + Distillers, 5.5%)
Another lauded brew from Central City, this extra special bitter took home a gold at the last World Cup of Beer. It’s a North American-style ESB, so much more hopped up than its English descendant. That said, this retains a lusciously sweet maltiness, which sets the stage for the hops to deliver a delicious citrus balancing act. The mouthfeel is full and rounded and the dryness long and lasting.
Food pairing: Fish ‘n’ chips
Read the original Red Racer ESB review
Red Racer Imperial IPA (Central City Brewers + Distillers, 9%)
Multiple award-winning double IPA that’s one of Central City brewmaster Gary Lohin’s signature beers. It’s sublimely balanced between deep, funky hops notes and sweet fresh fruitiness (grapefruit and tangerine make an appearance), while a huge, rounded, scorched-caramel maltiness offers a sturdy base. It’s so smooth and graceful that you barely notice the 90 IBUs of bitterness — but beware the ABV.
Food pairing: Fruity/tangy Indian curries; sharp cheddar for afters.
Read the original Imperial IPA review
Red Racer IPA (Central City Brewers + Distillers, 6.5%)
A B.C. classic — perhaps the B.C. classic — and still one of the finest IPAs anywhere. This seems to be where Central City brewer Gary Lohin’s alchemy perfectly aligns: an enticing, crystal-clear copper amber colour; avrich, intricately structured, sticky head; a divine floral aroma with some honey toast in there; a supremely balanced flavour profile packed with citrus and herbs and rounded out by a well-judged sea-saltiness; and a satisfying sumptuousness. Near perfection.
Food pairing: Indian, Thai cuisine
Read the original Red Racer IPA review
Red Racer Pilsner (Central City Brewers + Distillers, 5%)
For so long a pilsner wilderness, B.C. is slowly waking up to the style’s charms. Red Racer’s combines many of the great qualities of pilsners from North Germany and the Czech Republic. There’s a great herbal hop presence in the aroma and in the flavour above a lightly bready malt profile, and a lusciously soft, juicy mouthfeel to boot.
Food pairing: Indian, Mexican, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines, most seafood, sausages, ham and cheese sandwich.
Read the original Red Racer Pilsner review here
Saison (Four Winds Brewing Co., 6.5%)
It was love at first sip when I tried an uncarbonated sample of this saison ahead of Four Winds’ opening in June 2013. After taking in heady summer-meadow aromas backed by a little spice, wrap your tongue around juicy, bitter orange and lemon notes that introduces notes of grass, florals and clove. The kicker is in the crisp finish: slightly peppery and delightfully salty.
Food pairing: Pretty much anything that isn’t dessert. Suggestion: Fresh sourdough, brie, fine ham.
Available at many good private liquor stores
Siren Red Ale (Lighthouse Brewing Company, 8%)
A ramped-up red ale with a racy label, Lighthouse’s Siren has a deeply, almost treacly rich malt base with a battery of hops flavours from dry pine to grapefruit. The slightly earthy starchiness found in reds adds yet another layer of depth, while a full-bodied, super-soft and smooth mouthfeel belies the beer’s strength.
Food pairing: Game stew, steak and mushroom pie, steak salad, stuffed mushrooms
Read the original Siren Red Ale review
Is your favourite go-to beer missing from this list? Perhaps I haven’t reviewed it. Let me know in the comments below.
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