Nestled in its North Shore niche, Green Leaf has been quietly brewing up a storm since it opened in December.
Its Lonsdale Quay tasting room is proving to be a popular draw for locals, curious travellers from south of the inlet, and those out-of-breath folks who missed the SeaBus by four seconds and then have to while away half an hour in the ghost town the Quay becomes after 7 p.m. At least now they have the option of fresh beer and jerky.
But while its location is a draw – and will be more so as the weather warms up – Green Leaf is also putting out increasingly delicious and interesting beer under the guidance of owner Martin Ebadi and brewer Bill Herdman.
Interesting? Just watch the genesis of the delicious – and unfortunately now out-of-stock – Burning Rock Ale in this video. Also, a sour program is on the way with a Berliner Weisse promised for the warmer months..
Delicious? It’s all good. But I was particularly taken with Green Leaf’s pale ale when I first visited the brewery on its soft opening just before Christmas. Visiting the brewery again recently, then taking a growler home of the same pale ale, I came to the conclusion that it’s probably one of the best examples of the style in the province.
Pie Hole, part of the brewery’s regular line-up, is a delicious-looking opaque caramel colour with a thick, frothy head that clings to the glass.
The aroma is thick with earthy, tangy hops and a rich, toffee-sweet, toasty malty base. There are also subtle hints of sun-warmed pine needles.
On drinking, the caramel-toffee sweetness of the malt and citrusy hops washes over tongue. A chewiness builds from those rich malts, as tingly citrus-herbal hops highlights appear. This leads into a sturdy bitterness that builds at the sides of the mouth. Interestingly, this bitterness emphasizes the sweeter caramel notes, creating a beautiful balance. The mouthfeel is sumptuous, juicy, soft and gentle while the finish sports a poised dryness. But the flavour profile doesn’t stop there, with more gently tangy, herbal hops and chewy malt in the aftertaste.
Overall, this is an incredibly well balanced, flavourful beer that demands another swig. If it doesn’t keep your Pie Hole busy then I’m not sure what will.
Food pairing: Pale ales are always great with burgers. But I’m leaning more toward a toasted ciabatta sandwich here, filled with a robust hard cheese such as emmental or gruyere. Thick cut roast beef or lamb would also make a good filling — just make sure to be generous.
Beer Cat: Interested
Available in 650ml bottles and on draft at the Green Leaf tasting room, Lonsdale Quay
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