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Craft beer of the week: Rickshaw Raspberry IPA (Tree Brewing, 5.6%)

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Tree Rickshaw Raspberry IPA Kelowna BC craft beerThere’s been some interesting releases from Tree Brewing recently, including an unfiltered IPA, a sturdy stout and the Red Wood wine barrel-aged series of beers, but this one, surprisingly, trumps the lot.

Why surprising? Well, the fear is that fruit ramps up the sweetness, and that sweetness is likely to overhwlem the bitter, refreshing profile of an IPA.

Thankfully, Rickshaw is a more subtle brew in which the tang of raspberries interplays beautifully with the various highlights a good IPA affords.

The beer pours a clouded apricot/amber colour with a pink-tinged, fairly dense and fluffy white head that laces handsomely on the glass.

On the nose is a delicious, slightly creamy tang of raspberries mixed with subtle green herbal hops, above a gently sweet caramel-biscuit malt base.

Up front in the flavour are gently sweet berries with a slightly bready, biscuity caramel malt. A creamy raspberry tang swells and melds wonderfully with the greener, herbal hops as a sturdy bitterness (64 IBU worth) blooms centre mouth. The creaminess remains on the tongue as a gentle dryness develops in the finish. Light, creamy berry notes continue in the aftertaste.

It’s a beer full of understated subtlety; not too sweet, bitter or rich, but excellently balanced.

Food pairing: A meal-sized salad featuring goat’s cheese or grilled salmon. Or just a fresh baguette and creamy brie. It’s also got enough heft to pair with desserts such as creme brulee.

4 out of 5 -- Excellent

Beer Cat: Likes

650 ml, from $6, at private liquor stores 

jzeschky@theprovince.com

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