RIP Driftwood Ale. I’ll admit to being a fan of the Victoria brewery’s eponymous beer. It was one of those reassuring presences on the craft beer roster, a dependable choice, and very versatile for food pairing. At the same time, it’s crazy to think that it was the most hop-forward thing Kevin Hearsum and Jason Meyer brewed regularly at Driftwood before they launched a certain tugboat.
Change always brings mixed feelings. I should know, I’m a journalist. But over the years I’ve learned to see change as opportunity and the chance to savour new experiences.
Happily, New Growth is a change that’s very easy to embrace. Driftwood’s new pale ale, replete with what is becoming the standard-issue awesome label from Hired Guns, is a marked step up thanks in no small part to the presence of all-B.C. hops from the Sartori Cedar Ranch near Chilliwack.
While we’re not quite at the stage of being able to savour a year-round Sartori Harvest IPA, the local Centennial and Newport hops and typically lower ABV give New Growth very much an identity distinct from both its predecessor and its IPA labelmates.
Read more pale ale reviews here
New Growth pours a clouded orangey-peach with a luscious dense bright white head that laces well and keeps a respectable cap.
The aroma is huge with tropical-floral hops, with juicy melon dominating, followed up by lime, mango and tangerine. There’s a little spiciness too and some lightly caramel sweetness that melds well with the sweeter hop notes.
Melony tangerine notes appear upfront in the mouth, then give way to light white peppery spice above a nicely rounded biscuity-bready malt base, before richer, floral-inflected orangey fruit appears. The bitterness is relatively gentle but, together with a tantalizing tangy spice, leaves the beer deliciously poised. There’s a lightly fruity biscuitiness in aftertaste.
Food pairing: I see a Pad Thai or a milder Goan curry. Thick cubes of a fragrant, hard cheese such as Emmental or Gruyere would also fit the bill.
650ml, from $5.25, in government and private liquor stores
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Footnote: I found these original tasting notes for Driftwood Ale in the Zeschkyschloss vaults:
Very pale amber: Deceptive as to how much flavour’s to come. Very frothy, billowing, long-lasting luxurious head.
Musty earthiness in the aroma with a citrus zest tang (melon, lemon) and mildly sweet caramel malt.
Very soft but full rounded body. Robust bitterness kicks in after subtle sweetness and soft notes of grapefruit and melon hops. Long dry finish.
Fat Tug’s baby brother.
