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Craft beer of that there week there: Sri Lanka (Dageraad, 7.5%)

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Please allow me to indulge my local brewery. Actually, please don’t say anything. I’m going to do it anyway. Even if Dageraad didn’t live within downhill rolling distance of me, it’d still be one of my favourite B.C. breweries.

Everything that comes out of Ben Coli’s brewery has been fabulous and on style. Even the beer I’ve loved least everyone else seemed to like the most (De Witte, which is set for a passion-fruit reboot in a few weeks’ time).

What’s even more encouraging is seeing Dageraad release unique takes on Belgian staples, such as this here Sri Lanka, a dubbel brewed with tamarind fruit and treacle from the kithul palm that’s native to the island. The beer is the brainchild of Coli’s assistant Mitch Warner, whose wife is from Sri Lanka.

I have to be honest and say the colour isn’t particularly enticing, a cloudy, dull-caramel shade. But I doubt if you’ve got this far you’re going  to drain pour this beer on appearances alone. Besides, it’s topped by a creamy, just off white head that laces well.

And then there’s the heady aroma, smooth, creamy, lightly tangy and rich with slightly musty orange rind, marmalade and lightly spiced tamarind chutney. There’s a subtle saltiness knocking around, too.

But Sri Lanka really comes alive in the mouth, first of all with rich and luscious but restrained caramelized orange fruit and subtle floral-perfume notes. A deep malt base is bolstered by a seam of lightly bitter treacle that runs into a long finish full of perfumed, stewed and spiced orange notes. There’s just enough bitterness to balance the sweetness and the beer leaves a light warmth in the throat. It’s divinely soft and smooth with a lightly creamy, rounded mouthfeel.

Another Dageraad triumph. If this was Untappd, it’d be a 4.25.

Food pairing: The tamarind in this beer had me yearning for some amply spiced chunks of lamb and naan straight from the tandoor. And pakora. A mountain of mixed pakora. God, I love pakora. Fried or grilled meaty fish would also work, especially with a dusting of Indian spices. And get that cheese board filled with mature cheddars and goudas for afters.

4 out of 5 -- Excellent

650ml, at select private liquor stores

jzeschky@theprovince.com

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