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Sartori Harvest IPA 2013 (Driftwood Brewery, 7%)

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Driftwood Sartori Harvest IPA logoWell, here’s a hugely pleasant way of easing back into the world of B.C. craft beer after a month-long absence.

Part of me was panicking that I might have actually missed out on this year’s release of the province’s most hotly anticipated beer, the fifth incarnation of Driftwood‘s extremely limited wet-hopped IPA made with fresh hop cones from the Sartori Cedar Ranch near Cultus Lake. (check out my colleague Glenda Luymes’ great article on the ranch and owner Christian Sartori from earlier this year.)

I have to send huge thanks to Tess Parent of Driftwood for preserving a bottle for this beer nerd in need. Sadly no cask for me this year, though. I still have dreams about that sunny early evening at the Alibi Room last October …

Read reviews of Sartori Harvest 2012, 2011 and 2010

Outwardly, nothing much has changed with this year’s Sartori Harvest, including the gorgeously verdant label, though the colour may be a shade lighter: a glowing, golden apricot underneath the typically rich, bright white head.

On my tasting, the beer is a much tamer creation compared with the funky herbal cannabeast unleashed last year. The citrus aspects of the hops are accentuated more, with lovely, clean grapefruit on the nose above sweet, hay-tinged malt.

Flavourwise, too, juicy, lilting grapefruit and lime notes are dominant before subtle herbals grow in intensity to finish with a gently dry, herbal bitter bite. The malt sweetness is beautifully judged and accentuates the citrus while balancing the bitterness,

The full, rounded mouthfeel is similar to past versions, as is the incredible smoothness and drinkability. This year’s Sartori is more of a gentleman, though, full of persuasive charm.

It could be argued that it lacks the complexity of last year’s, but the bottom line for me is that it’s no less stellar and I don’t want to stop drinking it.

The bad news? There’s next to none left.

5 out of 5 -- World class

Beer Cat: LOVES

jzeschky@theprovince.com

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