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Red Racer Spiced Pumpkin Ale (Central City Brewers + Distillers, 5%)

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Central City Red Racer Spiced Pumpkin Ale bottleThis beer deserves a re-review as it’s evolved into something considerably different from the canned product of earlier years.

Betty’s now rocking that checked shirt on a 650ml bomber, which in itself tends to lend a slightly greater cachet of quality to any beer inside.

But whatever the vessel, whereas Central City‘s previous pumpkin ale was pretty good, now it’s one of the province’s best — and certainly most interesting.

It’s a slightly hazy copper-amber brew with a white, rather spritzy head that settles to a thin cap.

Ginger is the most notable spice on the nose, but it’s not dominant; rather, it melds well with cinnamon and a roast pumpkin depth, while there are hints of clove and star anise and a distinct saline edge.

Ginger and cinnamon come out most in the flavour too, while subtle pumpkin notes lend a certain robustness to the spices. There’s a consistent bitter undertow that moves the flavours along to a surprisingly salty, mineral finish.

It’s certainly the most savoury pumpkin ale that I’ve had, and a great choice if you find most examples of this style too cloying.

It means this pumpkin ale goes especially well with savoury dishes, particularly hearty autumn squash stews; simply seasoned sausages or a roast chicken with an ample side of roasted root veg would make a good match too, I reckon. But don’t completely neglect dessert: anything with caramel will find a great contrast with that saltiness.

4 out of 5 -- Excellent

Beer Cat: Likes — a first when it comes to pumpkin beer

650ml, $4.90 at B.C. Liquor Stores

jzeschky@theprovince.com

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