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Barnacle Wheat IPA (Lighthouse Brewing Company, 8%)

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Lighthouse Barnacle Wheat IPAHappy 15th birthday, Lighthouse Brewing Company! It was in 1998 that the Victoria brewery first rolled out its Race Rocks ale, which in my view has held up really well in B.C.’s constantly evolving craft beer scene.

One of those evolutions was Lighthouse’s recent decision to brew a greater variety of beer, more often, the result being a rash of new bomber releases including this here Barnacle.

Malted and toasted wheat makes up most of the grain bill in this limited release, which also continues head brewer Dean McLeod‘s love affair with hops from his native New Zealand: In this case, the Rakau and Riwaka varieties.

Barnacle is a slightly clouded sunny gold colour, with a spritzy but rich white head that laces nicely on the glass and leaves a steady cap.

On the nose are deep herbal hops aromas with melony and grapefruit highlights, above a honeyed, biscuity wheat-malt base. And is that a whiff of the sea or is the label playing tricks on me?

Flavourwise, a well-judged sweet wheat base has floral, perfumed hops and gentle fruitiness skipping over the top — surprisingly restrained for a high-alcohol beer.

The body and mouthfeel are beautiful, well poised between richness and refreshment. Bitterness creeps in after the flavours, soaking into the tongue and lifting off to leave a full dryness, while the high ABV leaves a pleasant warmth in throat.

3.5 out of 5 -- Very Good

Beer Cat: Likes

650ml, from $7, limited amounts remain in private liquor stores; Legacy Liquor still appears to have some

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